Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1999 11:08:14 -0400
Subject: Back to earth! Punta Arenas, Chile.
Pictures: none

Here we are, back where we started from on June 12th. I can hardly believe that this whole adventure is over. It feels both as if it had been going on for ever, and as if it had hurried by at record speed! Yesterday morning, as we entered the straights of Magellan, we picked up the Argentinian pilot who is required on the ship to navigate the straights, and he accompanied us on the last leg of our journey. By mid-afternoon, we could see the town of Punta Arenas in the distance, and as many of us watched from the bridge for the last time, we smoothly came alongside the dock and were once more tied to land: both literally and figuratively, we were "back to earth."

Soon after our arrival, Ray and I went ashore and took a long walk up a hill, from where we could see below us the town and the Nathaniel B. Palmer: it was a beautiful sight in the setting sun, a rediscovery of many colors we had not seen for a while: the houses and roofs of Punta Arenas are multi-colored, and here and there stood out the dark green of trees lining the streets. We also had to become acquainted again with cars, traffic, crowds on the sidewalks and doggies wagging their tails at us...

At eight in the evening, we had planned a dinner which included most of the science group and members of the crew who wished to participate: it was held at a restaurant named "finis terrae" (land's end) which, located on the 6th floor of one of the town's hotels, dominates the town and the harbor: the night view was superb, almost as superb as the food we were served: a buffet of many fish and meat dishes, followed by delicious desserts. I asked Marta how it felt to eat food she had not prepared, and she laughed: "good! Relaxed!"

Relaxed, in fact, as well as excited, seemed to be the key word of the evening, as were friendship, laughter and good cheer. Toasts were offered to Captain Joe and his crew, for their great job on the cruise and the pleasure of working with them, to Ray for his leadership, to the PI's for their hard work, to everyone for having contributed to a wonderful time as well as accomplished a lot of work. Captain Joe, with incredible generosity, made this last meal together his treat for everybody, then led us around the block to a place named "Calypso" where we finished the evening dancing and enjoying ourselves.

Today, some of the participants are heading home, and tomorrow morning, it will be our turn: from here, we fly to Santiago, then Miami. Personally, I will go from there to Paris, France, to visit my mother for a few weeks... besides the jetlag, I have the feeling I am going to feel a weather and culture lag!... But I also know there will be many stories to tell, many questions to answer, many memories to share...

It is still too early to fully grasp all of the many experiences, discoveries and learning which took place for me during this cruise, but I know, for sure, that it was a summer I am not likely to forget for many, many years! I also know that, if I can find a way, I will be back in this part of the world: I want to see Antarctica in the summer, and I know there are still, out there, many more penguins to observe...

Southern Hemisphere farewells, Dominique